Perched 55 floors above Melbourne, where the view competes with the plate for your attention, Vue de Monde promises an exceptional experience—and delivers with a flourish.

Rick and I were here the last time we were in Melbourne in 2020. The restaurant took the opportunity afforded by COVID (an odd phrase to write) to make small but notable changes to the dining room, the kitchens, and the menu.

The dining chairs and tables, famously upholstered with kangaroo pelts and leather, have been refreshed. The tables in the dining room have been slightly reoriented, sitting at angles to the windows. It's a seemingly negligible change, but it affords every diner a spectacular panoramic view over the city. They've also calibrated the table lighting so that dishes look the same at the table as when they're plated in the kitchen. A new culinary direction has been led by young executive chef, 28-year-old Hugh Allen.

The restaurant’s sister bar, Lui, was booked for a private event the night we were there, but it's undergone a major redesign. The bar has been moved to the center of the space and is now circular and finished in Portuguese granite. With tables arrayed around the circular bar, everyone has a spectacular view here, too. I’ll be excited to see it for myself in four years when I’ve had a chance to revive my bank account.

Back to dinner: Our evening kicked off with cocktails that showcased, as everything on the menu does, Australian ingredients. Rick’s Golden Wattle cocktail was a delightful mix of Republic of Fremantle gin, Strega, Tasmanian wasabi leaf, desert lime, and black lime oil. The wasabi leaf contributed an unusual spiciness to the citrus notes of the different limes. My Peachy Highball was a much lighter, fruitier choice made with Johnnie Walker Black, Pineau de Charentes, desert quandong, and peach. Fantastic.

The menu was a curated journey through contemporary Australian cuisine. Each dish was a surprising combination of traditional and innovative flavors and preparations. A radish with fermented koji and jasmine was served in a clear horseradish broth and almost too beautiful to disturb. But we did disturb it. Quickly.

The avocado tart with finger lime and borage flowers was like a fresh breeze from the coast, and the heirloom zucchini flower was a delicate testament to the garden's spring bounty. Then came luxurious, salty caviar beautifully complemented by the creamy, nutty richness of a macadamia emulsion. This one blew my mind. Who would think to pair, essentially, peanut butter and fish? But the combination is a surprisingly harmonious balance of flavors and textures.

A delicate and delicious Australian crab was followed by West Australian marron (a giant freshwater crayfish) in two parts: first, the tail, glazed with smoked butter and Tasmanian mountain pepper and accompanied by a version of “XO” sauce made with fried herbs to add flavor and a crunchy texture; then a warm, tender marron roe custard that enveloped the senses.

After a bright mid-meal martini of Tasmanian gin made by Taylor Smith Distilling Co., the march continued—padrón peppers filled with heirloom eggplant cooked in wild nasturtium oil, a refreshing sorbet served over a bed of rose and carnation petals freeze-dried tableside, lamb sweetbreads kissed by smoke, and Australian wagyu presented with a rich jus and fresh herb garnish.

The sweetbreads, in particular, are worth additional mention. Inherently tender and mild-flavored, the sweetbreads were expertly grilled, accompanied by local asparagus, and finished with a rich, nutty macadamia sauce. Alongside was an indigenous bush bread that resembles pita or American fry bread, made from native grains and seeds.

 After a short course of Australian cheeses, we were invited to visit the newly revamped kitchen, which boasts gorgeous timber cladding, a dramatic tile treatment, and a brand-new pastry section where we were treated to hot donut holes filled with Davidson plum puree, which was delightful.

The evening ended with the pièce de resistance, Vue de Monde's iconic chocolate dessert, a symphony of rich chocolate and airy perfection. They've been serving this dessert for years, and I would expect riots if they tried to remove it from the menu. We are all creatures of habit to some extent, right?

We nearly had to be rolled out by the time the shortbread cookies arrived. But we could have sat there, drinking, for as long as we wanted. One of the most significant changes the restaurant has made as part of its refresh is eliminating table turns. Meaning there is only one sitting every night. No one is lined up waiting for your table when you've finished. That might be a counter-intuitive business choice, but it allows staff to fully devote themselves to every customer at every service.

Vue de Monde is more than a restaurant; it celebrates Australia's culinary heritage and innovation. With its Australian materials and breathtaking views, the redesigned space is a fitting setting for such a feast. And lest you think the whole affair too stuffy, I can tell you that staff is earnest but light-hearted—you can banter with them. In fact, our host Hugo and I were talking about Tokaji Esszencia dessert wine—well, we were actually talking about the *price* of Tokaji Esszencia—and he diverted us through the wine room to show us the bottle. This wine is so expensive that they typically sell it in 3ml spoons.

Would I recommend Vue de Monde? Absolutely. It's a culinary ascent worth making, a journey through flavors and textures that resonate with the soul of Australia. It's expensive, sure, but some experiences are worth their weight in gold—or, in this case, in marron, wagyu, and Esszencia.

Details:

Vue de Monde, Rialto Towers, 525 Collins Street Level 55, Melbourne VIC, dinner Wednesday to Saturday, and lunch Friday and Saturday, hours vary.

posted January 19, 2024