Finding OKO in Fitzroy isn't easy, especially for out-of-towners. And we're from pretty far out of town. On a side street just off busy Smith Street, the address is on a door that doesn't open. The actual entrance is one unmarked door up the street, obscured behind lush greenery that covers a beautiful bluestone building.

But you should take a chance and look for it because you will be rewarded. Stepping into this new Mediterranean-inspired restaurant created by the mother-son duo Luciana and Sebastian Pasinetti—they call it the “future of Mediterranean”—feels like stepping into a friend’s warm, inviting home that just happens to serve amazing food.

Inside, the exposed bluestone is exposed, draped with ivy, and complemented by cozy green banquettes. Natural wood fronts a small bar, creating an ambiance that's both rustic and refined.

Menu selections are offered a la carte, but OKO also offers the "Feed Me" menu—a series of selections chosen by the kitchen and presented in rough order. Rick and I chose this prix fixe option because everything on the menu looked promising, and we were having trouble making decisions.

We started with cocktails—a fig Manhattan and a saffron negroni. The Manhattan was perfect, though the forward cinnamon flavor might not please everyone. Cinnamon is one of my favorites, though, so I found it good enough to order a second. The saffron in Rick’s negroni was a bit more subtle, and it created an unbelievably beautiful dark orange color. Both cocktails were hits, and we hadn't even gotten to the food yet.

We started with the house-made rosemary focaccia, dense, thick, and chewy, which we happily tore into big chunks dipped in za'atar and olive oil. The focaccia was accompanied by a cloudlike burrata sitting in a pool of truffle honey next to pesto, fresh zucchini, and fresh herbs. Fantastic.

Next up were two perfectly seared scallops, offset beautifully by a vibrant puddle of green pea puree and topped with fresh green peas. Visually stunning and also delicious. The scallops were followed by marinated trumpet mushrooms and vegan truffle cream set enticingly on a crisp-fried tortilla. The crunch of the tortilla was an ideal textural counterpoint to the pillowy truffle cream and softened mushrooms.

Our final “starter” was fried halloumi slathered with chilli-tomato chutney and topped with dried black Kalamata olives. “Chilli” is the Australian spelling of “chile,” but they do not typically mean a particularly spicy chile. So the chutney was more bright than spicy, making it the perfect partner to the briny olives and salty cheese.

At that point, we shifted to the mains. OKO's Mediterranean fried chicken was a revelation. The buttermilk-brined chicken was moist and tender, enrobed in a perfectly crispy breading, and paired with an aggressively spicy zhoug, a cilantro-based Yemeni hot sauce that is growing in popularity. Perfect. Button mushrooms sauteéd in butter and shawarma spices and served over hummus with chile oil were also a standout, proving that mushrooms, when done right, can be the star of the show. The pièce de résistance was the French-trimmed lamb chops served with smoked baba ghanoush and pomegranate molasses.

I’m guessing that desserts would rise to the same level as the rest of the meal, but we were far too full to contemplate more food. Next time.

Throughout the evening, the service mirrored the food in that it was impeccable. Our server, Amin, was helpful and friendly throughout. In addition to suggesting our cocktails and choreographing the various dishes, he gave us loads of helpful tips about visiting Perth, the next stop on our trip.

Sebastian runs the front of the house while Luciana oversees the kitchen with a team led by Chef Kim Moore. Between them, they have nearly 35 years of experience in the hospitality industry, having worked at some of Melbourne’s and London’s most iconic restaurants. Sebastian and Luciana take inclusivity seriously, running one of Melbourne’s only restaurants with an entirely female or queer staff. 

Sebastian is also keen on using the space as a showcase for under-appreciated chefs, hosting pop-ups and events like a recent “Little Lagos” celebrating West African food, music & culture.

In sum, OKO is a gem. It's not just a restaurant; it's a testament to culinary craftsmanship and a beacon of positive culture in the hospitality industry. I'd recommend it in a heartbeat for anyone in search of a meal that's as soul-satisfying as it is palate-pleasing. It's a must-visit, and I can't wait to go back.

Details:

OKO Restaurant, 135 Greeves Street, Fitzroy VIC, dinner 5:30–11 p.m. Tuesday to Saturday, and lunch Saturday noon–3 p.m.

posted December 14, 2023