You think you know sandwiches? Unless you’ve stepped into Hector’s Deli in Fitzroy, you don’t. Really. It’s a lesson I’ve learned several times. Sandwiches here approach the Platonic ideal of what sandwiches can be.

Hector’s Deli is more than just a sandwich shop—it’s a temple where bread and filling come together in a holy union, blessed by the culinary gods. Or, in this case, by owners Jason Barratt and Dom Wilton, whose fine-dining pedigrees from noted Melbourne fine-dining restaurants Stokehouse and Attica have been channeled into mastering the art of the humble sandwich.

The deli itself is minimalism done right. White brick walls and cheerfully DIY interiors are as unpretentious as the menu. There’s a certain charm to its graffitied red-brick exterior—a nod to the grittiness of the neighborhood—contrasting with the polished stainless steel and natural wood inside. Simple and straightforward, just like the food.

Rick and I usually visited in the morning in an often-vain attempt to avoid the line. And their breakfast sandwiches, though limited in scope—English muffin, egg, cheese, and either sausage or bacon—are a morning staple that never disappoints. Pair one with a perfectly executed flat white made with local Axil Coffee Roasters’ beans and a maple-glazed donut, and you’ve just ensured a great start to your day.

On those occasions when we showed up closer to lunch (they stop serving the breakfast sandwiches at 10:30—and run out of donuts before then), I would have the Beef & Pickles. Despite its somewhat plain name, it was a marvel with a pile of delectable Uncle’s Smallgoods beef brisket, its tenderness offset by the strong, tangy embrace of mustard pickle spread and light rye bread.

Rick would likely choose the tuna melt—soft-cooked tuna seasoned with the zing of pickled green chili and onion, all cuddled up with melted American cheese. It’s comfort food that doesn’t just comfort you, it lifts you up.

All of the sandwiches at Hector’s have a personality. The fried chicken sandwich features what I understand is the largest chicken schnitzel known to man. Hyperbole? Probably. But people can’t get enough of the crunchy, golden exterior and tender chicken covered with tarragon butter in a steamed potato bun.

But Hector’s is not just about meat—though, to be fair, the meat they use is phenomenal. Each sandwich type—toasted, fried, or fresh—includes a vegetarian option. Their vegan “Salad” sandwich is a riot of colors and flavors, with thick-cut, house-baked rye slathered with a spicy chickpea mix and stacked with an array of fresh veggies. Hector’s caters to all tastes.

In a city known for its culinary scene, Hector’s Deli stands out by doing something simply and exceptionally well. They’ve elevated the sandwich to an art form without losing sight of its soulful, unpretentious roots.

Whether you’re a sandwich aficionado or just someone who appreciates good food made with love and skill, Hector’s is a must-visit. And if you’re in doubt about what to order, just remember that in Hector’s world, there are no wrong choices—only deliciously right ones.

Details:

Hector's Deli, 111 Moor St, Fitzroy VIC, 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily

posted January 31, 2024