Walking into Double Rainbow Eating House inside The Rechabite in Perth is akin to stepping into a culinary kaleidoscope.

Double Rainbow is one of four venues in The Rechabite—along with the Goodwill Club in the basement, The Rechabite Hall for concerts and shows on the second floor, and the Hello Bar on the rooftop. All of this glorious, hedonistic entertainment occurs in what was, in the 1920s, a grand hall built by the Independent Order of Rechabites, an international “friendly society” promoting total abstinence from alcohol.*

Double Rainbow and its siblings bring contemporary zest to the historic space. This 240-seat dynamo is all about Korean-inspired (they call it "Korean-ish") dishes meant for sharing, communal tables, and late hours. The restaurant can get rowdy, and you may find yourself sitting next to open shelves of pantry items two stories tall or at the counter across from the wok and grill stations. But as lively as Double Rainbow can be, under Chef Navarre Top's watchful eye, every plate is a testament to the art of the kitchen, marrying bold presentations with the freshest local bounty.

Rick and I have visited twice. It was, in fact, at the top of our Things to Do Before Leaving Perth list. Our evening began, as so many do, with a cocktail. Many of the drinks on the menu looked too sweet for us,** but I chose the Paint the Town, and I'm glad I did. It was complex but instantly likable, blending Australian ingredients and liquors, including a citrusy, rhubarb-y aperitif, yuzu gin, and bitters made from Seville oranges, raspberries, and violets. Rick, a bit less adventurous, enjoyed his Negroni.

We’d selected the Han Sang set (the chef's tasting menu), which started off with a bang. In rapid succession, we got soft bread with creamy duck liver parfait,*** wok-blistered edamame sprinkled with sea salt, and oysters dressed in chojang and chives. All three were perfectly prepared and were excellent foils for our drinks.

The raw ahi with goat curd, yuzu kosho, and tempura enoki shifted dinner into high gear. The creamy tuna melded with the spicy, citrusy blast of yuzu kosho. The fried mushrooms provided crunch and visual drama like the dish had been garnished with white coral set over the luminous pink fish. And the kimchi dumplings with pumpkin ssamjang and crunchy chili vinegar that followed introduced a fiery tang.

Often, Han Seng dishes come out of the kitchen individually, especially when the restaurant is full, which happened on our earlier visits. But on this weekday evening, our dinner came out in small groupings. I enjoyed both strategies, but I liked how they came together over the final dinner because the 30-day dry-aged wagyu was paired with triple-cooked potatoes in garlic duck fat and an apple kimchi salad.

The steak was perfect—satisfyingly charred on the outside over a wood fire and tender and juicy on the inside. The potatoes, so plain looking, were an unexpected hero, their crispy edges and fluffy insides coated in a savory bliss that only Kewpie mayonnaise can provide. And the salad? A perfect counterpoint to the richness of the steak and potatoes with radicchio, romaine, and thinly sliced apple in a sticky dressing with a hint of spice topped with a crunchy candied-pecan crumble.

As if all that wasn't enough, we had a dessert bento box.^† This dessert is purely ridiculous, in the very best sense of the word. Five (!) lovingly crafted desserts, plus a macaron, to share. The miso caramel ice cream sandwich reigned supreme as a spot-on example of the chef’s touch for balancing the rich and the delicate.

For those brave enough to embrace the riot of flavors and the communal dining ethos, Double Rainbow is a must-visit. It's a brilliant patchwork of Korean, Japanese, North African, and Australian influences, where every dish is an invitation to explore the boundaries of contemporary cuisine. Whether you're in it for the wagyu, the grilled carrots, or the inventive cocktails, Double Rainbow promises a feast that's as unforgettable as it is unapologetically bold.

Details:

Double Rainbow Eating House, 224 William St, Perth WA, 5 to late Wednesday to Sunday; bookings at therechabite.com.au

posted March 17, 2024