Snuggled in a quiet city center courtyard in Szeged, Alkimista offers an experience that begins well before your first bite. You arrive at locked gates and are buzzed in, hinting at the intimacy that the restaurant cultivates. Every evening, at the stroke of seven, guests are welcomed personally by the irrepressible chef, Krisztina Katkó. This reception sets the tone for an unforgettable evening—one that is exclusive, personal, and passionately presented.

Space at Alkimista is cozy, serving just 14 people in a single seating each night. This is also part of the charm. The environment lends itself to a sense of shared exploration, with each dish representing a new, uncharted culinary adventure. The restaurant's boutique scale allows Katkó to adopt an approach that's both meticulous and improvisational, placing Alkimista in a unique position in Szeged's—and Hungary’s—dining landscape.

In this elegant, snug oasis, Katkó creates nine- to 11-course tasting menus that cleverly weaves traditional and contemporary culinary threads together, showcasing the depth, diversity, and richness of Hungary's culinary heritage, which goes far beyond gulyás and pörkölt.*

The night we were there, dinner was based on foods traditionally served in the fields during harvest, a fantastic merging of the past and the present. The menu, which dishes such as the smoked "reaper" soup with soft potato dumplings, the polenta with corn foam, and the slow-roasted pork belly with sauerkraut pay homage to Hungarian tradition while exploring new interpretations. Each course is paired with a biodynamic Hungarian wine, enhancing the nuances of each course to create a fully rounded dining experience.

The service at Alkimista is excellent, discreet, and attentive. A minor mishap at a neighboring table was managed quickly and quietly to be nearly instantly forgotten by the guests. Katkó’s sincere enthusiasm is evident as she introduces each course with an engaging story of its provenance and preparation.

The Alkimista experience is marked by consistency, authenticity, and creativity. It consistently rises in lists of best restaurants in Hungary, which is especially notable because it is so far away from the capital. It was also recently awarded a well-earned Michelin star as the dining review behemoth casts a wider net to include newer, rural, and out-of-the-way restaurants.

Ultimately, Alkimista Culinary Workshop provides more than just a meal. It offers a journey through the flavors and stories of Hungary, all lovingly curated and narrated by a talented chef, and created and served by a dedicated team. Dining here is an experience that evokes Hungary's culinary soul. It’s an experience that locals and visitors should not miss—a testament to Hungary's progressive culinary scene.

* To be fair, it would be exciting to see how either of these standbys come out of Katkó’s imagination and kitchen.

Details:

Alkimista Kulináris Műhely, Kelemen László utca 2, Szeged, Hungary, seating at 7 Thursday thru Saturday

posted July 2, 2023